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This marks pumpkin season and my favourite time of the year, especially for all the spiced dishes and other hearty meals of autumn. This Rajasthani sautéed dish is one I cook often, and the blend of fresh ginger, chilli and jaggery lends it a wonderful balance of flavour. The biryani, on the other hand, is loaded with whole spices, long-grain rice and clarified butter, which give so much more taste to the layers of rice and produce.

Squash and Mushroom Biryani

A celebration of curry dishes begins around early October, so how perfect to celebrate than with a rich, comforting, single-pot biryani? For convenience, prepare the spiced vegetable mixture element ahead of time and layer all components on the day you want to serve.

Preparation 20 min
Cook 2 hr
Serves 4

For the squash and mushroom gravy
4 tbsp ghee, or use butter
1 tsp cumin seeds
2 dried bay leaves
4 cloves
450g white onions, peeled and thinly sliced
3 green bird's eye chillies, slit open lengthways
5cm piece fresh ginger, julienned
2 tbsp tomato puree
¼ tsp mild chilli powder, or substitute with mild paprika
1 tsp ground turmeric
2 tsp coriander powder
1 heaped tbsp greek yoghurt
300g butternut squash flesh, cut into bite-sized pieces
300g button mushrooms, trimmed and sliced
400ml vegetable stock, or water
Salt, to taste
2 tbsp chopped coriander, for serving

Rice preparation
200g basmati rice
2 bay leaves
4 green cardamom pods
A pinch of salt

Biryani assembly
2 tbsp melted ghee
1 pinch saffron threads, soaked in 3 tbsp warm water
1¼cm piece fresh ginger, julienned
3 tbsp finely chopped fresh mint leaves
1 tsp ground cardamom powder
1 tsp garam masala
Raita and salad, to serve

First make the gravy. Heat the ghee in a large, thick-bottomed pot on a moderate flame, add the cumin, bay and clove spices, and sauté for a few seconds. Add the onion slices and cook, stirring often, for about half an hour, until softened. When the onions start to brown, remove half to a plate and set aside (for later use during the assembly).

Add the fresh chilies and ginger to the onions in pan, cook for a minute, then mix in the tomato paste, chilli powder, turmeric and coriander, and fry for a minute. Turn down to a gentle flame, stir in the yoghurt and cook for a couple of minutes.

Mix in the pumpkin pieces and mushroom halves, toss to cover in the spices, then cook for several minutes. Add the stock or water, and add salt to taste. Bring to a boil, then lower the temperature, cover and simmer for 18-20 minutes, stirring once halfway to ensure nothing's stuck to the bottom of the pan. Garnish with fresh cilantro, then remove from the stove.

Preheat the oven to 200C (180C fan)/390F/gas 6. Wash the basmati, then put it in a saucepan with a litre of water and the bay leaves, cardamom and salt. Bring to a boil, simmer for around ten minutes, until partially cooked, then drain.

To build the biryani, place a tablespoon of melted ghee in a casserole pot for which you have a tight-fitting lid. Spoon one portion the vegetable curry, then layer with some the cooked grains. Add a portion the saffron infusion, ginger strips, mint, cardamom powder and garam masala, then add the caramelized onions. Top with the remaining vegetable curry, then arrange the remaining grains. Top with the remaining ghee, saffron water, ginger, mint, ground cardamom and garam masala.

Cover with baking paper, cover with the lid, then cook on the middle shelf of the oven for 15-17 minutes, so all the flavours infuse the rice. Remove of the oven, leave to rest, keeping covered, for 10 minutes, then remove the cover and serve with raita and salad.

Traditional Indian Achari Kaddu (Pumpkin with Spice Blend Stir-Fry)

The Hindi term "pickling style" refers to seasoning a preparation using pickling spices, and the mix includes mustard, fennel, fenugreek seeds, cumin seeds, hing and nigella, but they're not used only in pickles. The blend also features in various types of spiced dishes and stir-fries, such as this one.

Prep 10 min
Cook 30 min
Serves 4

1 tsp black mustard seeds
½ tsp fenugreek seeds
1 tsp fennel seeds
4 tbsp vegetable oil
1 pinch asafoetida
5cm piece fresh ginger, minced
750g squash flesh, or use pumpkin, cut into bite-sized pieces
1 tsp mild chilli powder
½ tsp ground turmeric
Salt, as needed
1 tbsp jaggery, or substitute with brown sugar
2 tsp dried mango powder

Put the mustard, fenugreek and fennel seeds in a spice grinder, roughly grind, then set aside. Put the cooking oil in a large frying pan or kadhai on a moderate flame. Introduce the crushed spices and the asafoetida, and sauté, stirring, for a few seconds. Add the ginger, fry for a short while, then add the pumpkin pieces, chili powder and turmeric, and sauté, stirring, for several additional minutes.

Add a small amount water to the pan, salt with salt to taste and heat until bubbling. Cover, reduce the flame, and leave to cook for 20 minutes, mixing midway through. Add the jaggery, breaking up chunks a little, then incorporate the dried mango, stir well and serve warm with chapatis or naan.